Date: 17th July, 13 August 2024.
In this article I not only cover Tbilisi but about Georgia in general, so its bit lenghty compared to other articles. Tbilisi, the capital city of Georgia, is relatively small compared to cities in India. With a total population of around 3.7 million people in the whole country, Georgia has vast areas of natural landscapes ( especially the caucuses mountains to the north). Consequently, the infrastructure of roads and cities in Georgia is notably clean in comparison to India. During my visit, I encountered wild horses in Georgia for the first time, a unique experience not found in any other country I have visited so far. Georgia is surrounded by numerous mountains and is located close to Russia and Armenia.
Tbilisi appears to be a relaxed city where residents typically start work around 10AM and stay up late, usually going to bed between 12 and 1AM. Its just not few people sleep around 1AM but everyone in towns and cities sleep so late. The sun sets around 9PM, making the days seem longer in the summer. Temperatures reach around 30°C, but drop to 15 to 20°C at night, especially in the mountains during the summer.
Tbilisi boasts a wide range of tourist attractions, including the Gergeti Holy Trinity Cathedral, Bride of Peace, Mtatsminda Park, Median Bazaar, Mother of Georgia, Tabor Monastery, Narikala Fort, Chronicles of Georgia, Freedom Square, etc.
The most renowned cathedral in Trinity is the Gergeti Holy Trinity Cathedral. What astonishes me is that its architecture, constructed between 1995 and 2004, is in an old-fashioned style. It is noteworthy that while churches/temples/mosques in India are often made of concrete and steel, lacking aesthetic and narrative elements, the artistic sensibilities of Georgians deserve recognition as they dedicated time to build it in a traditional manner. I had the opportunity to visit this cathedral on my first day in Georgia.
Two contrasting things you will notice when it comes to religion in Georgia to that of the Europeans. One is all of the chruches here are Orthodox compared to European Catholic churches. I do not particularly know the difference between the two but its noteworthy. Second the architecture of European churches are complex with lot of murals and intricate details where as in Georgia they are simple making it looks elegant.
Getting around:Â While in Tbilisi, I relied on a metro card for local transportation, with fares ranging from 1 to 2 GEL (30 to 60 INR) for any journey within the city. When traveling across Georgia, I opted for minibuses, which are quite affordable compared to US and Indian standards. Some of the nicest people I have met are while travelling inthe minibus. or instance, a trip to Kazbegi, approximately 150KM from Tbilisi, costs around 15 GEL (450 INR) by minibus. I find minibuses to be the preferred choice as they allow for interaction with both locals and fellow international travelers.
In Tbilisi, the majority of vehicles are Mercedez Benz, Toyotas, BMWs, and so on. I noticed a higher number of Toyota Priuses in the city for some reason. While these cars are typically considered expensive in India and the US, I was surprised to see them owned by middle-class individuals here, suggesting that they may not be as costly in this location, again i am guessing here. I even came across a Tesla taxi here, which was unexpected.
The Parliament of Georgia is known for its stunning architecture constructed using yellow stone. In india you would expect there would be lot of security and not possible to enter but here Parliamnet seems any other building and we can go around very casually which I liked.
Across from the parliament, you'll see the National Museum of Georgia, which I haven't been to because the admission fee is 30 GEL (1000 INR) and I've heard that the museum doesn't have a large number of artifacts.
Stone buildings have a certain charm and grandeur that concrete and steel structures lack. Many old buildings feature European architecture, with spacious halls and large lobbies. One aspect I found less appealing is the roof covered in iron sheets, which I believe requires less maintenance but would have been more aesthetically pleasing with tiles, as seen in traditional European architecture. Majority of the cities and towns in Georgia has one common street called Rustaveli which is named after is Skota Rustaveli who is a great poet, writer and influencer in old times. This is similar to Mahatma Ganda or Indira Gandi roads in India. So make sure you walk on this street to get the general vibe of the city.
Despite being a capital city, Tbilisi has many fruit trees in residential areas, which I think every city must have. I believe that Indians should consider adopting this practice instead of solely focusing on constructing concrete houses without any room for gardens.
In general, Georgians are friendly and willing to help with any questions. Their behavior is more similar to that of Europe than the United States, as they are helpful but may not engage in extensive conversation unless prompted. This differs from American culture, where people tend to engage more to ensure visitors feel welcome. The older generations in Georgia speak Russian, reflecting its history as part of the Soviet Union, while the younger generations predominantly speak English.
Women in this region have predominantly black hair and blue or hazel eyes, with beautiful facial features and physique. They maintain a fit physique, walk briskly, and possess a distinctly feminine nature and attitude. This stands in stark contrast to American women, who are often perceived as having a more masculine nature and these days indian women too. While I appreciate beauty in women from all corners of the globe, one striking feature I've noticed about Georgian women is the slight half-closed look in their eyes, giving them a somewhat sad yet serene appearance. It's reminiscent of the angels or depictions of Mother Mary in cathedral paintings, where the angels convey a sense of gentle sadness but also joy in witnessing baby Jesus. This unique quality sets Georgian women, as they look like angels, apart from their European counterparts .
Men exude a strong sense of masculinity with pronounced jawlines and wider wrists. They have a solid build and do not resemble like frail Indian men.
Smoking cigarettes is a common habit among both men and women. It's something that bothered me a bit in Georgia, as whenever you try to appreciate nature and the fresh air, someone nearby always starts smoking :(.
Liberty Square is the central hub of this historic city, bustling with activity. Surrounding it are numerous restaurants where one can savor delicious food and wine while soaking in the vibrant atmosphere of the town. In the evenings, street performances entertain visitors until midnight. Not only ther artists perform but also regular people join them in dancing which I really liked. Seems like georgians know how to enjoy their life as you can see in the pictures . Personally, I have often found myself here, observing people, sketching, and immersing myself in a good book.
Additionally, there is an underground passage that links different streets due to the challenge of crossing bustling roads. Inside the passage, you can find small affordable stores for purchasing items. Here are couple of famous songs, Gandagana, Georgian dance.
Since I stayed in Tbilisi almost a month I started visiting near by places alternate days, relaxing couple of days and sight seeing next day. One of such day is going to Meteki Church, Tabor Monastry, Narkala Fotress and Mother of Georgia.
Constructed in the 13th century, the Metekhi Virgin Mary Assumption Church is a small church situated on the banks of the Kura River. Within the same compound stands a remarkable statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali on horseback, the founder of Tbilisi. It is said that the king protected the city from numerous Iranian invasions.
Near the Metekhi church, you can find small tourist attractions such as the Bridge of Peace and Median Bazaar. Median Bazaar is a great place to purchase a variety of souvenir items.
Tabor Monastery is located approximately 2 kilometers away from Metekhi Church. Despite the distance, there are stairs that offer a much quicker route to reach it. This is the first church where I was allowed to take pictures of the interior. While many tourists do not include this place in their itinerary, I personally enjoyed the tranquility and serene atmosphere it offered. Additionally, from this monastery, one can enjoy a panoramic view of Tbilisi city, including sights such as Metekhi Church and the Parliament building.
Regrettably, I was unable to visit Nakarala Fortress and Cathedral as it is currently closed to the public. Around the same place you will have old sulfur baths and Orbeliani baths. Apparently they are relaxing to have baths during the winter season.
The Mother of Georgia statue stands proudly overlooking the Tbilisi Botanical Garden. Although its architectural design may not be considered appealing, it is a site worth visiting. Erected atop Sololaki hill in 1958 during Tbilisi's 1500th anniversary celebration, the statue embodies the Georgian national character. She holds a bowl of wine in her left hand to welcome friends and a sword in her right hand for enemies. One can table cable car from Metekhi church to the Statue.The location attracts numerous tourists seeking a panoramic view of Tbilisi city. Visitors can relax here, enjoy the cityscape, and engage with fellow tourists. Major tourists attractions of Tbilisi can be seen from here.
Another great suggestion is to take a stroll through the expansive Botanical Park of Tbilisi.
I took another day just to stroll around the Botanical park, I am sure family with kids is a very good place to visit for 3 to 4 hours. There are lot of trees and plants across the world here.
Another must see place is Chronicles of Georgia is situated a short distance north of Tbilisi and can be reached in approximately 30 minutes by city bus. This impressive architectural masterpiece was constructed in 1985 by sculptor Zurab Tsereteli. The design portrays 5000 years of Georgian history, featuring depictions of various kings, queens, and the life story of Christ. Visitors can easily spend half a day admiring this stunning architecture. Despite not being fully completed, the structure is already quite elegant in its current state. The site offers a magnificent view of the Tbilisi Sea. Initially, I had planned to rent a place close to the sea for an entire month.
When it comes to fruits, there is a good selection available, including blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, peaches, plums, grapes, watermelons, and musk melons. I loved watermelons and muskmelons as they are sweet. Watermelons can weigh anywhere from 10kg to 20kg and I bought 3 times to relish these sweet fruits. Every night once i come back from touring I used to have 3 to 4 big slices of watermeloons to quench my thurst and sweet tooth. Most of them are reasonably priced, except for bananas, which are surprisingly priced at 150 to 180 INR per kilogram. It seems that bananas are not locally grown here. An interesting sight is the abundance of fruit vendors along the roadside as you travel between towns, giving me a nostalgic village-like feeling reminiscent of India.
There are not many vegetable options available, particularly a limited selection of leafy greens.
Georgian cuisine offers a limited selection of dishes compared to Indian or Thai food, making it easier to choose. The majority of Georgian dishes are meat-based with fewer vegetable options. Popular dishes include Chkmeruli, qabab, imeruli khachapuri, Kachaprui, Khinkali, Churchkhela, Tklapi, and more. Churchkhela and Tklapi serve as desserts, made from fruits and nuts, albeit less sweet than traditional Indian sweets. Bread is a common accompaniment to most Georgian meals. I am terrible at taking photos of the food so I picked some of them from internet:
While looking for a gym to workout I met couple of people who happen to be artists. I showed them my art and they were impressed. They were on the way to do a live painting which i followed into National Library and made couple of freinds there. Interestingly I met the same artists near the liberty square again :) as they were going to do some caricatures of the people on the street :). They did the caricature of me as well :).
BTW those two artists to the right are identical twins, how cool is that as me and my brothers are twins tho not identical :).
Hope you have enjoyed reading such a lengthy article however, i have broken into various other cities into small different pages. Dont forget to read them as well :) as encountered different people and their stories.
Apart from these above places to visit, there are other small towns which are worthy to visit as well. Some of them are Svaneti, Mestia, Ushagali, Sighnagi, Zugdidi, etc.
I spent almost 3 weeks in the city just wandering interacting with locals and very much liked the city. Here are some other random photos you might like:
